When to go
Best time to walk the West Highland Way
May to September is the season, with late May and September usually the best balance of daylight, dry spells and few midges.
Three things shape the year on the West Highland Way, and none of them is snow. The first is daylight: in June the far north gets close to eighteen usable hours, while in December it is barely seven, which is not enough for the 30 km stage from Tyndrum to Kingshouse. The second is the Highland midge, active from roughly late May to early September and worst in still, humid conditions near water. The third is accommodation, because the villages hold few beds and several places close for the winter, so the itinerary depends on what is open.
July and August are the busiest, and on this route that shows up as a booking problem rather than a queue on the path. Rowardennan, Kingshouse and Kinlochleven have limited capacity and sell out months ahead; Scottish school holidays run through most of July and into mid-August, and the Loch Lomond shore also carries day visitors. Midges peak in the same period. The path itself is wide enough that you rarely feel hemmed in, but arriving without a reservation in high summer is a serious mistake.
The shoulder months are April, early May and October, and each has an honest cost. April is quiet, midge-free and often surprisingly bright, but the ground is still saturated and the Rannoch Moor crossing can be waterlogged. Early May frequently gives the driest spell of the whole year with midges barely started. October brings autumn colour, empty paths and cheap beds, but the days shorten fast, gales become more frequent, and a number of guesthouses and campsites close after the first weeks.
Weather here behaves like mountain weather even though the high point is only 550 m. Rain falls in every month, and Fort William is among the wettest towns in Britain, so the question is how much rather than whether. Wind matters more than temperature on Rannoch Moor and the Devil’s Staircase, where an exposed crossing in a gale is the genuine hazard. Summer afternoons are typically mild rather than warm. Snow can lie on the high sections into April. These are patterns, not promises.
Before or after the walk
Tours and visits in Glasgow
A few well-rated options near West Highland Way, for the rest days either side of the trail. Prices are the provider’s current starting price.
Affiliate links: if you book through them we may earn a commission, at no extra cost to you. It never changes our stage, distance or luggage information. (Civitatis) How the project is funded
Month by month
Typical conditions through the year. Weather varies from season to season, so treat this as a planning guide and check the forecast close to your dates.
- January Off season
Seven hours of light, frequent gales and many beds closed. The long moorland stages become unsafe.
- February Off season
Cold, wet and dark, with snow possible on the Devil’s Staircase and limited accommodation open.
- March Shoulder
Days lengthen and services reopen, but the ground is saturated and the moor holds standing water.
- April Shoulder
Quiet, midge-free and often bright, with cold nights and boggy going after winter rain.
- May Prime
Frequently the driest month, long light, midges only just starting. Among the best times to walk.
- June Prime
Maximum daylight and full services, with midges building near Loch Lomond from mid-month onwards.
- July Shoulder
Warmest and busiest, with midges at their worst and beds along Loch Lomond booked far ahead.
- August Shoulder
Still crowded and midge-heavy, though the second half quietens as Scottish schools return.
- September Prime
Cooler, much quieter, midges fading and autumn colour arriving. Many walkers’ preferred month.
- October Shoulder
Empty paths and low prices, offset by short days, frequent gales and accommodation starting to close.
- November Off season
Dark, wet and windy. Rannoch Moor and the Devil’s Staircase become a serious exposed crossing.
- December Off season
Minimal daylight and widespread winter closures. Only short sections are realistic as day walks.
The sweet spot
The second half of May, or the first three weeks of September. May usually offers the driest ground with midges barely started; September gives quiet paths, autumn colour and enough daylight for the long Rannoch Moor stage.
Outside the season
From November to March the path stays open and waymarked, but seven or eight hours of daylight is not enough for the 30 km Tyndrum to Kingshouse stage. Many guesthouses, bunkhouses and campsites close, so bed gaps grow. Snow and ice can lie on the Devil’s Staircase and above Kinlochleven, and gales on Rannoch Moor are the real danger. Winter walking happens, but it needs shorter stages and winter kit.
Frequently asked
Can I walk the West Highland Way in winter?
Some people do, but it is a different undertaking. Daylight allows only seven or eight hours of walking, which forces you to break the long Tyndrum to Kingshouse stage, and many guesthouses and campsites are closed. Expect snow or ice on the Devil’s Staircase, waterlogged moorland and strong winds. Winter clothing, a head torch and a genuine bail-out plan are essential rather than optional.
When is midge season on the West Highland Way?
Roughly late May to early September, peaking in July and August. Midges are worst in still, humid, overcast conditions near water, especially along Loch Lomond and around Kinlochleven, and they are far more of a problem for campers than for walkers sleeping indoors. Wind and rain keep them down. A head net and repellent cost little and change the trip.
Which month is quietest?
Among the walkable months, April and October are clearly the quietest, with September a good compromise between space and conditions. July is the busiest, driven by Scottish school holidays and international walkers together. If you want solitude with services still running, aim for the first two weeks of April or the first two weeks of October.
Is May or September better?
They suit different priorities. May typically gives the driest spell of the year, the longest run of settled days and very few midges, but ground can still be wet from winter and nights are cold. September is quieter, warmer underfoot, with autumn colour, but daylight shortens through the month and Atlantic fronts become more frequent. Both are strong choices; neither guarantees dry weather.
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