Luggage transfer on the Torres del Paine — W Trek

The W lies between Lago Grey, Lago Pehoé and the Ascencio valley, and the road stops at the edges. A gravel road reaches Laguna Amarga and the hotel in the Las Torres sector at the eastern end; at the western end the road reaches Pudeto, from where the catamaran crosses to Paine Grande. Between those three points there is only trail: Chileno, Los Cuernos, Francés, Italiano and Grey are foot access. Both arms of the W are out-and-back, so you can leave the pack at camp and walk up to the Torres or into the Valle del Francés carrying almost nothing.

A fully self-sufficient walker carries twelve to sixteen kilos here: tent, sleeping bag and mat, stove, five days of food, and clothing for Patagonian wind that regularly gusts hard enough to knock people over on the exposed sections. Taking half board at the refugios and renting a sleeping bag and mat at each one strips that back to around eight kilos of clothing, water and day gear. It costs considerably more and it is the single decision that most changes how the trek feels, especially on the two long days.

Booking runs in a fixed order and starts early. Park entry is reserved and paid in advance, then refugio and campsite places through the two concessionaires who operate them inside the park, both of which open reservations months ahead and sell out for December to February. Buses from Puerto Natales and the catamaran timetable come next. Only then do you decide what stays in town. Build in slack: a cancelled catamaran, a closed sector or a wind warning rearranges the itinerary, and the refuges are not obliged to move your booking.