Luggage transfer on the Kumano Kodo

National Route 311 follows the Tonda and Hikigawa valleys past Takahara, Chikatsuyu and Nonaka before descending to Hongū, and the pilgrimage path shadows it along the ridges above, dropping back to the road at each village. That is what makes the western half easy to serve. East of Hongū the pattern breaks. The onsen villages of Yunomine, Kawayu and Watarase are on roads, and Shingū and Nachi are on the coast railway, but Koguchi sits on a narrow river road with sparse service, and the Ogumotori-goe crossing from Koguchi over the pass to Nachi has no vehicle access whatsoever.

On a supported day the pack is very light, lighter than on any European route, because the inns provide yukata, towels, soap and both meals. Water, rain gear, cash and a torch for early starts is close to the whole list. The exception is the day from Koguchi to Nachi: a climb of around 600 m up the slope the old pilgrims named for breaking bodies, then a long descent, with no shop and no bail-out. Plan that stage with a full day pack, food and enough water, and start it early.

The inns are small — some take only a handful of guests — and they book out months ahead for spring and autumn, which are the best months to walk. Because the booking system and the baggage shuttle are administered together, most walkers fix the accommodation list first and attach the bag arrangements to it in the same transaction. Typhoon damage and heavy rain close forest sections from time to time; when that happens the road stays open and buses run the valley, so the bag still moves even if you take a bus for part of the day.